I have heard it all from stylists about what you should and should not do when cutting curly hair, which got me thinking: What is the difference between shears and how they shape your hair?
For more information about this, I went straight to my local curly expert, Ron Valdez at Estilo Valdez Salon in Austin, TX. There are so many different types of shears on the market, each claiming that it is one and only tool you will need. Ron Valdez sings a different tune, “I cycle through six pairs of shears. You can’t tell which you will need to use until you cut down into the hair. Every head of hair is different, so it responds differently to each pair of scissors.”
How can you tell when you’re using the right pair or scissors? Valdez offers some advice, “Start off with one pair and (it) may change throughout the head. One pair won’t always cut it. When you close the shear and it glides through the hair and doesn’t push it out, that is the right type of shear for that hair.”
One glance at these scissors will tell you just how different they are from each other. Each is designed to perform a specific task—some are used to create subtle effects while others are perfect for basic haircuts.
What Type of Shear is Best for You?
You have some choices to make before you select the right pair of scissors. Of course, you’ll also want to shop around for the best prices.
Type of Blades
Beveled blades feature one serrated edge and are ideal for layered cuts, tapered cuts and the “scissor over the comb” method.
Convex blades are razor sharp and promise a clean, smooth, flawless cut. They are ideal for slide cutting.
Type of Handles
Opposing grips feature handles of the same length that are symmetrical to the center screw. It is perfect for individuals who cut with the thumb and middle finger.
Offset grips feature a short thumb handle and a longer finger handle. This allows natural, fluid movement and is ideal for individuals who cut with the thumb and ring finger.
Crane grips feature a long finger handle and an angled thumb. This ensures less strain on the wrist and shoulder and allows a freer, open cut.
Types of Thumb Grips
Standard thumb scissors feature a removable and reversible finger resting piece that can be attached to either the left or right. This allows individuals greater versatility (with left and right hand use.
Cutaway thumb scissors do not feature the reversible finger resting piece, but does provide exceptional comfort.
Anatomic thumb scissors allow for greater radial movement due to its curved design. Thus it provides more freedom of movement for the stylist.
Rotating thumb scissors are a new advancement in the haircutting industry. They reduce hand and wrist strain and feature an open-hand grip design, which reduces thumb “travel” and creates a more comfortable experience for the stylist.
Length of Blade
Choosing the blade length is really a matter of comfort and preferred styling methods. You will find you probably need to utilize several different types of scissors, but your hand should feel comfortable no matter what size it is.
Short blades are useful for detailed touchups, such as cutting around the ears or very close to the skin. This type of blade is recommended for all stylists; chances are it will be used frequently for more intricate cutting. The blade should be no longer than 5.5 inches.
Long blades are ideal for cutting thick hair, slide cutting, scissor over comb methods, and bobs, to name a few.
Some other features that stylists may choose to focus on include the production material of the shears, the method of production of the shears and the tension system the shears provide.
So how can you get hands-on experience using various shears with different curl patterns? The new stylists at Estilio Valdez ask their curly friends to come in for a cut, and Valdez even puts an ad on Craigslist for all types of curls to receive a free cut while the stylists are learning how to shape and style curls correctly.
The best advice Ron could give me was, “It’s a craft and just like any other craft, you will master it over time.”
by Megan Dorcey
When it comes to working with curls, the options seem endless. In no area is that more apparent than cutting techniques, where a growing number of philosophies that are evolving as curl empowerment has taken hold – both in the chair as well as behind it.
We talked to some pioneering texture experts who have developed their own approaches to working with waves, curls and kinks. Their varied approaches illustrate the challenges and rewards of working with texture. When it comes to texture, there is no place for a one-size-fits-all approach.
Cutting Technique: Carve-and-Slice method
Depending on the density of the hair, she slices – takes a little – or carves – takes a lot. You go to the depth of the curl, following the curvature of the curl and allowing the curls to puzzle into each.
You cut the hair in sections, shaking it to see the tightness and start of the wave pattern to see how it stacks. You either slice or carve so that the curls sit inside each other. You never cut closer than 3 inches to the scalp to prevent the hair from puffing out.
Ouidad always cuts curly hair when it’s wet.
“Curly hair doesn’t dry the same, so it’s very difficult to cut it dry. You need to know the curvature of the curl in its natural state,” Ouidad says. (more…)
You Could Become a Stylist to the Stars
A Cut Above: You Could Become a Stylist to the Stars
Making it to the red carpet is one of the ultimate goals of celebrities in Hollywood and in the music industry. What they wear and how they wear it as they walk down the ultimate fashion gauntlet will grace the covers of People, E, and In Touch plus eliciting commentary from everyone from Joan Rivers to Ryan Seacrest. But who is behind these looks? Where did they start? How did they start? How can you become one of these style-makers?
Cosmetology is more than donning a smock and handling a pair of shears. If you’re looking into a career in cosmetology, the best path to success involves keeping up with changing fashions, training at an accredited beauty school, getting your cosmetology license, learning and mastering the business development skills required to grow and maintain your client base. And, of equal importance, you need to make a commitment to lifelong learning by taking advanced, continuing education courses.
Defining Hair Fashions
Keeping up with the current fashions not only helps a stylist keep up their own personal appearance (it’s important that you, as a stylist, make a good impression on your clients), it also helps to identify current styles to make the best choices for clients. Understanding art and technical design is not just for painters and architects. (more…)
You may not be able to visit an expensive salon, but you can take advantage of these styling tips from some top hair stylists.
Create Soft Waves – Blow dry your hair straight. Spray Evian (or other bottled water) on hair with a pressurized spray bottle. Let hair dry naturally.
Quick Wavy Look Tip #1 – Part your hair on the sides and loosely braid the pieces that frame your face. Blow dry these pieces for a few minutes. Let your hair cool down before unbraiding it. Results: Your hair will be straight at the top and wavy on the bottom.
Quick Wavy Look Tip #2 – Part your hair into 1-inch sections. Roll sections up into pin curls and secure with hair clips or bobby pins. Put your shower cap on and jump into the shower. The steam will set your hair as you shower. Remove the cap afterwards. Take the clips out of your hair and shake your now wavy hair out.
Elegant Updo Tip #1 – Tease your hair lightly at the crown before pulling it into a French Twist. This creates more fullness.
Elegant Updo Tip #2 – Add a few drops of shine serum product before twisting hair into place to give your updo a polished look.
Hair Coloring Tip – Keep hair that’s been color-treated healthy by immediately applying a professional deep conditioner after hair has been dyed. This adds moisture and protects your hair from being over processed.
Best Blow Dryer – Invest in a blow dryer that has a nozzle to control air flow and a diffuser for curly styles.
Ionic Hair Products – Use an ionic blow dryer and iron because they lock in moisture. Hair becomes shinier and easier to manage.
Updated Hot Rollers – Battery operated hot rollers are great for curly hair styles and, best of all, they’re portable.
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=13036&ca=Womens+Interest
The official name for split ends is Trichoptlosis; but no matter what you call them, split ends are annoying and make the hair appear dull and scraggly. The cause of split ends has to do with the protective cuticle, which is stripped from the ends of the hair fibers. Although split ends can happen to all types of hair, typically you will see the most on brittle or dry hair. Other common causes can include excessive brushing, over dying, and brushing the hair while wet.
When the protective cuticle is removed, it cannot be replaced. The result is hair that is split in two, or sometimes, three strands. Depending on how bad the split end, it can be anywhere from one-eighth to one inch long. While there are several options for treating split ends, the best one is to cut the damaged fibers off.
Many people with split ends think that they have to change their monthly trim to once a week. In fact, that is not necessary. To prevent split ends from becoming worse, you can do other things, including trimming them yourself. Now before you panic, keep in mind that women do trim their own hair all the time and no one is the wiser. Even supermodels will trim their own hair between appointments! (more…)
Lindsey is in her mid-twenties and hails from the Midwest, a land second only to the South in Really Bad Hair. Having spent much of her youth supporting that title, she feels compelled to help others escape a similar fate, and is convinced salvation can be found in department store product aisles. Lindsey hates seeing people with wet hair in public and is suspicious of shampoo that costs more than $20.
In the years and years that I’ve been coloring my own hair, I’ve had a total of two “oops!” dye jobs. The first is unfortunately immortalized on my current driver’s license in the form of completely black hair. Lots of pale people can pull off brown-black or black hair. Apparently I am not one of them. The second “oops” occurred yesterday. It’s autumn and I want lovely, shiny, dark brown hair. And I mostly have it. I deviated from my normal hair color brand and shades, choosing something seemingly innocuous and ended up with almost-black bangs, roots, and ends. The middle? A medium brown. Ombre may be a trend, but NOT ON YOUR HAIR.
Unable to afford a professional fix and headed to a wedding this weekend, I and my patchy hair went to a beauty supply store, where they presented me with two options: buy a professional dye kit, bowl, brush, developer, etc or buy L’Oreal Color Zap to bleach the color out. I went with the third option: Google. Armed with the knowledge of the masses, I went back to the drugstore and my mainstay hair color, as well as bought some dish soap. The unsealed hair color box made me suspicious, so I checked to make sure the numbers on the bottle and on the box matched. They didn’t. When I was in high school, a friend regaled me with a story about how her co-workers used to switch hair dyes around when they were bored at work. Horrified, I’ve checked and double-checked product numbers ever since. My neurotic behavior has finally been vindicated!
Back at home I lathered up my head (particularly the roots and the ends) with some Palmolive, rinsed and repeated. I let it air dry, and apologized to my poor, innocent hair, promising to buy it ice cream or maybe a pony. At the very least, some really deep conditioner. It is of course, entirely possible that I botched this one and applied it poorly. But I’m skeptical of that being the lone culprit having colored my hair dozens of times before, and am going to go ahead and point some blame at the brand. Whose name will go unmentioned so as to protect the innocent.
Screw that, it was GARNIER.
In any case, thanks to a little dish soap (another alternative being a good clarifying shampoo) and some freshly and carefully-applied L’Oreal Feria, my hair is rested, redyed, and ready to work. Perhaps a little bit more fragile, but no longer resembling the back end of a raccoon. I obviously wouldn’t recommend this as a regular antidote to overly darkened hair, but as a quick fix? It totally worked.