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A demonstration of a two-strand twist.
by Michelle Breyer on Monday, November 23, 2009
Rick Wellman, celebrity colorist and blond expert, specializes in blondes. As the head colorist and co-owner of Patrick Melville Salon, his clients include celebrity blondes like Heidi Klum and Blake Lively—the latter, who hits up the salon with her dog Penny, was recently credited with the hair of the moment by the NY Times.
As a former artist, Wellman has an uncanny ability to blend and paint color onto hair, using his unique signature style called Bio-Lights, finding the perfect, natural-looking shade which Wellman claims is dependent on your skin tone. While he is an influential colorist at a top salon, Wellman has also worked with companies like Clairol to develop boxed at-home color.
When coloring natural curly or wavy hair, Wellman says to keep in mind the texture is generally a little more coarse and dry.
One advantage though, most likely the curls will camouflage any missed spots. Treat and time the root area differently than you treat the ends, especially if the client already has colored her hair. Be careful to avoid excessive overlapping of color to the ends as curly hair tends to be more porous and can quickly suck up color and become dull. Try adding a tablespoon of natural coconut oil to buffer the remaining formula and help protect ends.
When getting highlights, avoid many tiny fine strands of light pieces as they can just get lost and melt into your curls. Generally, curly hair needs thicker pieces of lightness to be even noticed or worth the while.
Wellman says that the key to achieving natural-looking blond color is “to keep subtle dimension throughout. Solid platinum or monotone yellow are dead giveaways to fake hair color. Remember, hair naturally is composed of different shades blended in the same family. For a more natural look, blonde hair color should always be a little more toned down or ashy near the root area and gradually lighter and vibrant towards the ends, never the reversed.”
The official name for split ends is Trichoptlosis; but no matter what you call them, split ends are annoying and make the hair appear dull and scraggly. The cause of split ends has to do with the protective cuticle, which is stripped from the ends of the hair fibers. Although split ends can happen to all types of hair, typically you will see the most on brittle or dry hair. Other common causes can include excessive brushing, over dying, and brushing the hair while wet.
When the protective cuticle is removed, it cannot be replaced. The result is hair that is split in two, or sometimes, three strands. Depending on how bad the split end, it can be anywhere from one-eighth to one inch long. While there are several options for treating split ends, the best one is to cut the damaged fibers off.
Many people with split ends think that they have to change their monthly trim to once a week. In fact, that is not necessary. To prevent split ends from becoming worse, you can do other things, including trimming them yourself. Now before you panic, keep in mind that women do trim their own hair all the time and no one is the wiser. Even supermodels will trim their own hair between appointments! (more…)
Lindsey is in her mid-twenties and hails from the Midwest, a land second only to the South in Really Bad Hair. Having spent much of her youth supporting that title, she feels compelled to help others escape a similar fate, and is convinced salvation can be found in department store product aisles. Lindsey hates seeing people with wet hair in public and is suspicious of shampoo that costs more than $20.
In the years and years that I’ve been coloring my own hair, I’ve had a total of two “oops!” dye jobs. The first is unfortunately immortalized on my current driver’s license in the form of completely black hair. Lots of pale people can pull off brown-black or black hair. Apparently I am not one of them. The second “oops” occurred yesterday. It’s autumn and I want lovely, shiny, dark brown hair. And I mostly have it. I deviated from my normal hair color brand and shades, choosing something seemingly innocuous and ended up with almost-black bangs, roots, and ends. The middle? A medium brown. Ombre may be a trend, but NOT ON YOUR HAIR.
Unable to afford a professional fix and headed to a wedding this weekend, I and my patchy hair went to a beauty supply store, where they presented me with two options: buy a professional dye kit, bowl, brush, developer, etc or buy L’Oreal Color Zap to bleach the color out. I went with the third option: Google. Armed with the knowledge of the masses, I went back to the drugstore and my mainstay hair color, as well as bought some dish soap. The unsealed hair color box made me suspicious, so I checked to make sure the numbers on the bottle and on the box matched. They didn’t. When I was in high school, a friend regaled me with a story about how her co-workers used to switch hair dyes around when they were bored at work. Horrified, I’ve checked and double-checked product numbers ever since. My neurotic behavior has finally been vindicated!
Back at home I lathered up my head (particularly the roots and the ends) with some Palmolive, rinsed and repeated. I let it air dry, and apologized to my poor, innocent hair, promising to buy it ice cream or maybe a pony. At the very least, some really deep conditioner. It is of course, entirely possible that I botched this one and applied it poorly. But I’m skeptical of that being the lone culprit having colored my hair dozens of times before, and am going to go ahead and point some blame at the brand. Whose name will go unmentioned so as to protect the innocent.
Screw that, it was GARNIER.
In any case, thanks to a little dish soap (another alternative being a good clarifying shampoo) and some freshly and carefully-applied L’Oreal Feria, my hair is rested, redyed, and ready to work. Perhaps a little bit more fragile, but no longer resembling the back end of a raccoon. I obviously wouldn’t recommend this as a regular antidote to overly darkened hair, but as a quick fix? It totally worked.